![]() This is the simplest setup you can create. Fill light: circular reflector on the right of the scene.Key light: a window to the left of the scene.From the simplest setup to a more complicated one. Instead, I want to show you what you can do with cheap and basic equipment in four case studies. If I were to tell you everything about still life photography, this post would never end. It is a great way to note how you staged the set and the light setup for future reference. This is particularly useful if you are using manual lenses that do not communicate with the camera body. Write a logbook to note down the camera settings used for each shot.Think about what you want to highlight in the scene-which feelings to convey and what textures to reveal. Think about your composition, how the objects play together, and consider leading lines and angles of view. Tossing objects into the scene will not give great results. Be sure to clean your props and all visible surfaces of dust, smudges, and fingerprints. Still life is all about perfection (even messy setups should be carefully staged) and nothing should be left unchecked. Consider that glassy, shiny, and reflective surfaces are the most difficult to work with.Take a minimalistic approach so the main subject is easily identified. Don’t get carried away trying to craft scenes with lots of different objects (or food) and materials. Generally speaking, for still life and product photography, you are better off staying between the 50 and 120mm focal range. This means that those lenses are equivalent to 100mm, 60mm, and 120mm lenses for full frame cameras. Note that I use those lenses on an m4/3 camera, with a crop factor of 2x. I usually use an old, manual, Olympus Zuiko OM 50mm f/1.4 and the Sigma Art 30mm f/1.4 as they are super sharp and cheap. Old, manual lenses are good and usually cheap. It reduces the minimum focus distance of my lenses. Since I do not own a macro lens, I usually work with a +2 and/or +3 close-up lens. Ideally, a macro lens is required, but you can get away with a set of close-up lenses. A telephoto lens and a fast normal lens.A second one might be necessary if you want to mount your flashgun instead of using it handheld. I use a Neewer Translucent Softbox, a compact, wonderful, and affordable softbox. You will also need a wireless trigger or a fairly long E-TTL cord to enable flash off-camera. Ideally, it can be used in manual mode and has adjustable power. Look around your house or visit a flea market for interesting props that enhance the scene. These can be easily built using tinfoil and cardboard. Small silver and white reflectors that bounce light back into the scene.Different materials to create the floor and background of your scene.But nothing is stopping you from using your film camera. A digital camera is cheaper to run, and you can have immediate feedback. Keep costs low by getting creative and crafting DIY accessories and solutions to get the shot that you want.īelow, I have provided a list of the materials and equipment you need to begin tabletop and still life photography. But you can still take amazing photos with basic equipment in the corner of your living room. What Do You Need for Your Still Life Project?Ī professional may require a suitable setup and expensive equipment. You can always create a nice storytelling image like the one below. From staging the scene to firing the shutter-it is all your decision.ĭespite the commercial nature of tabletop photography, you’re not limited to photographing still life in a commercial way. With still life and tabletop photography, you are totally in control of every single aspect of your photo. Did you know that sidelight from a low light source is great to reveal textures? For example, you are able to observe how different kinds of light will affect the scene. You can learn a lot from still life photography. Why You Should Try Still Life Photography
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |